How It's Made

Dry carbon, more accurately called prepreg carbon (pre-impregnated) is a fundamentally different process.

The carbon fabric comes from the supplier already impregnated with resin in precise, controlled amounts. It's stored frozen to prevent premature curing.

The pre-preg fabric is laid into a mold, then placed inside an autoclave - essentially a giant pressure oven. The autoclave applies heat (up to 130–180°C) and pressure (up to 85 PSI) simultaneously.

This process forces out excess resin and air bubbles, leaving a much higher ratio of carbon fiber to resin than wet lay-up can achieve. The result is a part that's lighter, stronger, and more consistent.

This is the same process used to make Formula 1 monocoques, aerospace components, and high-end supercars.

Pros

✅ 20–40% lighter - Significantly less resin weight for the same part
✅ Higher stiffness-to-weight ratio - Stronger AND lighter
✅ More consistent - Computer-controlled process eliminates human variation
✅ Superior strength — Higher fiber content = better structural properties
✅ The benchmark — What F1, aerospace, and top-tier motorsport use

Cons

❌ Significantly more expensive — Material cost is higher, autoclave equipment is expensive
❌ Limited availability — Requires autoclave access (not all manufacturers have this)
❌ More difficult to repair — Specialized process makes damage repair complex
❌ Diminishing returns — Performance difference rarely noticeable on street cars

Real-World Weight Example

Same Mitsubishi Evo CT9A carbon fiber bonnet (dry carbon): ~4–5kg
Stock steel bonnet: 15–18kg
Weight saved vs steel: 12–14kg
Weight saved vs wet carbon: 2kg

The difference between wet and dry carbon on that bonnet: 2 kilograms. On a 1,400kg car.

Best For

Time attack, circuit racing, hillclimb, dedicated track cars — anywhere lap times are measured in tenths and weight reduction is a primary objective, not an aesthetic choice.

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Weight Comparison: The Real Numbers

Let's put actual numbers to this so you can decide if the difference matters to your build.

 

What this means in context:

A full wet carbon exterior (bonnet, boot, front lip, side skirts) might save you 18–25kg vs stock.
The same parts in dry carbon might save you 22–30kg vs stock.

The difference: 4–5kg total. On a 1,400kg car, that's 0.3% of total weight.

Now compare that to:

• Lightweight wheels: 10–20kg saved (and it's unsprung weight, which matters more)
• Lithium battery: 15kg saved
• Removing rear seats: 20–30kg saved

Unless you've done those first, dry carbon is a very expensive way to save 0.3%.

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Cost Difference: What You're Actually Paying For

This varies by part and manufacturer, but here's a realistic ballpark:

Wet carbon bonnet (Evo CT9A): $1,500–$2,500
Dry carbon bonnet (same car): $3,500–$6,000+

You're paying 2–3x more for a 2kg weight saving.

Is it worth it? Depends entirely on your objectives.

If you're chasing lap times and have already done every other weight reduction — yes, those 2kg might be worth it.

If you're building a street car that sees the occasional track day — no, that money goes much further in suspension, tires, or aero development.

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The Honest Answer: Which Should You Actually Buy?

Here's the framework we use when customers ask us this question:

Choose WET CARBON if:

• Your car sees street use, even spirited driving
• You want the carbon fiber look + real weight savings
• Budget matters more than ultimate performance
• You're building OEM+, show quality, or fast street
• You haven't done the "big three" weight reductions yet (wheels, battery, interior)

This is 95% of builds.

Choose DRY CARBON if:

• You run dedicated track days or compete in timed events
• Lap times are measured in tenths and matter to you
• You've already done: lightweight wheels, lithium battery, stripped/caged interior, lightweight flywheel
• Weight reduction is a PRIMARY objective, not an aesthetic choice
• You understand you're paying premium money for marginal gains

This is 5% of builds.

The Brutal Truth

If you haven't done the "big three" weight reductions first (wheels, battery, interior), spending the dry carbon premium is purely for bragging rights.

Here's the math:

A set of lightweight forged wheels over stock wheels saves 10–20kg of unsprung weight. Unsprung weight (wheels, tires, brakes) has roughly 4x the performance impact of sprung weight (body panels).

So saving 2kg on a bonnet (dry vs wet carbon) has roughly the same effect as saving 0.5kg unsprung weight.

One lightweight wheel saves more effective weight than five dry carbon body panels.

Do those first. Then, if you're still chasing grams, come back to dry carbon.

For the vast majority of builds - street cars, show cars, weekend warriors, even fast road cars - quality wet carbon gives you 90% of the benefit at a fraction of the cost.

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What to Look For in ANY Carbon Part

Whether you buy wet or dry, here's how to spot quality vs cheap garbage:

1. Weave Consistency

Look at the surface closely. The weave pattern should be uniform with no gaps, bubbles, or distortion. Inconsistent weave usually means poor layup quality or cheap fabric.

A quality carbon part has a crisp, clear weave pattern across the entire surface.

2. Clear Coat Finish

A quality carbon part should have a deep, glass-like finish — almost like looking into a mirror. Haziness, orange peel texture, or visible micro-scratches in the clear coat indicate poor finishing.

Cheap clear coat will also yellow under UV exposure within 6–12 months. Always ask if the clear coat is UV-resistant.

We offer most of our larger products such as Bonnets with a professionally applied 2K Clear Coat that can last up to 7 years if taken care of regularly.

3. Fitment

This is where budget carbon falls apart.

The part should follow the body lines with no gaps, no high spots, and no requirement for modification to fit. If a seller says "minor trimming may be required" or "some fettling needed" — that's code for "this doesn't fit properly."

Quality carbon uses the factory mounting points and sits flush. Period.

Always check reviews and fitment photos from other owners before buying.

Here at Carbon Street, we have taken the time to re manufacture most of our molds, using OEM parts, ensuring fitment and quality are not compromised.

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Carbon Street's Standard

Everything we make at Carbon Street is built to fit — not to sit in a box looking good.

Before a part goes to market, it's test-fitted on the actual vehicle it's designed for. If it needs "custom work" or modification to fit properly, we don't sell it.

We use wet carbon for our current range because it delivers the right balance of quality, weight, and value for the street and show builds our customers run. When we expand into dedicated motorsport applications, we'll use the process that's right for that use case.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is dry carbon stronger than wet carbon?

Yes, but not by as much as you'd think for the same thickness. Dry carbon has a higher fiber-to-resin ratio, making it stiffer and stronger per unit weight. However, for street applications and most motorsport use cases, properly-made wet carbon is more than strong enough. The strength difference only becomes critical in extreme applications like monocoques or structural chassis components.

How much lighter is dry carbon vs wet carbon?

Typically 20–40% lighter for the same part. In real terms: a wet carbon bonnet might weigh 6–7kg, while the dry carbon version weighs 4–5kg. That's a 2kg difference on a 1,400kg car — or about 0.14% of total weight.

Can you tell the difference visually between wet and dry carbon?

Not reliably. Both can have identical weave patterns (2x2 twill is most common) and finishes. A well-made wet carbon part with quality clear coat looks identical to dry carbon. The difference is in the manufacturing process and resulting weight/strength properties, not the appearance.

Does wet carbon yellow over time?

Only if it doesn't have UV-resistant clear coat. Quality wet carbon parts with proper UV protection will not yellow, even after years of sun exposure. The issue isn't the carbon itself — it's the resin and clear coat. Always ask about UV protection before buying any carbon part. This is especially important in Australia's harsh UV environment.

Is prepreg carbon the same as dry carbon?

Yes. "Prepreg" is short for "pre-impregnated" - meaning the carbon fabric comes with resin already applied in precise amounts before you buy it. It's then cured in an autoclave under heat and pressure. Prepreg carbon, dry carbon, and autoclave carbon all refer to the same process.

Why is dry carbon so much more expensive?

Three reasons: (1) The prepreg material itself costs 3–5x more than standard carbon fabric. (2) It requires an autoclave, which is a $50,000–$500,000 piece of equipment most manufacturers don't have access to. (3) The process is more complex and has a higher rejection rate — parts that don't cure perfectly can't be sold.

Can wet carbon delaminate?

Poorly-made wet carbon can delaminate (layers separating) if the resin wasn't applied properly or if the part is exposed to extreme heat cycles. Quality wet carbon with proper resin saturation and curing will not delaminate under normal use. This is why manufacturer reputation matters - don't buy the cheapest carbon you can find.

Which does Carbon Street use?

We use wet carbon for our current range - RX7 FD3S, Evo CT9A, and Skyline R33 parts - because it delivers the right balance of quality, weight, and value for street and show builds. Our parts are hand-laid, UV-protected, and test-fitted on actual vehicles before production. If you're building a dedicated track car and want to discuss dry carbon options, contact us directly.

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Ready to Add Carbon to Your Build?

We make carbon fiber parts for the cars we actually own and love:

Mitsubishi Evo CT9A →

Front lips, bonnets, diffusers designed for the CT9A platform (Evo VII, VIII, IX)

Mazda RX7 FD3S →

Our Australian-first 1-piece carbon front lip, plus spoilers and trim

Nissan Skyline R33 →

Carbon range for both GTR and GTS-T variants

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Not sure which part is right for your build?

DM us on Instagram @carbonstreet.au or contact us here.

We'd rather you get the right part than just make a sale.

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Published by Carbon Street — Australia's leaders in high-quality carbon fiber parts for JDM icons.